Known as “Little Paris,” Romania’s capital city of Bucharest showcases its Baroque churches, Gothic restaurants and Belle Époque museums. Photo © Masezdromaderi | Dreamstime.com

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The 14th-century Bran Castle likely had no association with Vlad the Impaler or Bram Stoker, but tourists don’t seem to mind. Photo by Daniel Dudu | Pixabay

At the crossroads of Central and Eastern Europe is the surprisingly beautiful, sophisticated and affordable country of Romania. The picturesque Carpathian Mountains dominate the landscape, cutting through Romania’s center and most famous region, Transylvania.

My husband, Chris, and I love exploring new-to-us countries, so we were excited to sail the lower Danube River with Avalon Waterways. The tour scheduled several days to explore Romania, and Bran Castle, the inspiration for Dracula’s castle, was a must-see on this trip.

Growing up in a Western democracy, I found it fascinating to learn about the communist history of Eastern Europe. In 1989, the Romanian Revolution lifted the Iron Curtain, and Romania made its global debut as a democracy. That year Nicolae Ceaușescu, the president of communist Romania, was executed for crimes against his people.

Romania’s people are charming and resilient after living under an oppressive regime for 40 years. Its diverse population comes from its shifting borders, with people from Ukraine, Hungary, Serbia, Bulgaria and Moldova.

Modern Bucharest

Dubbed “Little Paris,” the capital city, Bucharest, is pleasantly modern with a hip, cosmopolitan vibe. The city has a hodgepodge of communist-era concrete apartment blocks, glass and steel skyscrapers, as well as charming 18th-century architecture in Old Town.

Its main thoroughfare, Calea Victoriei (Victory Avenue), is dotted with trendy shops, inviting cafés, historic churches and beautiful homes, adding a cultured ambiance to this centuries-old city.

In the center of Bucharest, the Royal Palace was the official residence of Romanian kings and queens until 1947, when the country became a republic. It’s now the National Museum of Art of Romania, which holds the country’s art collection. Occasionally the Romanian royal family hosts diplomatic meetings and events in the former Royal Palace.

We gaped at a few other architectural wonders in Bucharest, including the Romanian Athenaeum, an ornate concert hall; the historic, five-star InterContinental Athénée Palace Hotel; and the massive Palace of Parliament — the second-largest administrative building in size globally, just behind the Pentagon.

Bibliophiles will love the fairytale-like atmosphere at the iconic Cărturești Carusel. Bucharest’s famous Old Town bookstore offers six floors of books, winding staircases and a bistro to sip a strong brew while enjoying a good read.

Dracula’s castle

Three hours north of Bucharest is Brașov, world-renowned for Bran Castle. Traversing the Romanian countryside on the way there transports you back to a pre-industrial farming era. Villages surrounded by hectares of corn, wheat, barley, oats, beets and potatoes stretch across a wide plateau, giving way to foothills and the towering Carpathian Mountains.

Perched on a prominent outcrop, Bran Castle is a stunning medieval fortress built in 1377. One famous visitor, Vlad the Impaler, was considered the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. It was later home to Queen Marie of Romania, granddaughter of the United Kingdom’s Queen Victoria.

On the night of our visit, the moon cast a hazy glow across the grounds and the steep, rocky path to the castle. It was perfectly creepy for our Dracula adventure.

As part of our Avalon Waterways excursion, we were treated to a private showing and traditional dinner in the castle. Not having to wait in a long line and jockey for better views allowed us time to explore at a leisurely pace. We were served a traditional Romanian brandy and several local dishes, including a delicious mushroom stew.

Another spot to visit in Brașov is the Black Church. Situated in the heart of Brașov’s Old Town, the 14th-century church was built by German Saxons. In 1689, a devastating citywide fire left behind smoke-blackened walls, giving the church its moniker. The Black Church houses one of the largest pipe organs in Eastern Europe, and we were treated to a delightful mini concert.

Peleș Castle

The centerpiece of the charming town of Sinaia is a stunning architectural masterpiece in the German neo-Renaissance style: Peleș Castle. The former summer residence of the Romanian royal family, it dominates the city’s landscape.

Wandering through some of the 160 rooms, I couldn’t imagine living in such luxury. Walls adorned with exquisite art, crystal chandeliers made from Italian Murano glass, a massive library with a secret passage to the king’s rooms and expensive antiquities capture your eye at every turn. The castle was the first in Europe to have electricity. The late 19th-century marvel was built with hot and cold running water, central heating, a telephone and an elevator.

King Carol I, who lived in Peleș Castle until his death in 1914, amassed a collection of 4,500 armory artifacts. The weaponry display, including a fully outfitted knight on his armored horse, is one of the finest collections of 15th- through 19th-century pieces.

If you go

Round-trip airfare to Bucharest starts at $680. Traveling by river cruise offers the convenience of unpacking only once while you visit multiple destinations. We thoroughly enjoyed our lower Danube River cruise on the Avalon Passion, which can accommodate 164 passengers (avalonwaterways.com).

Bucharest is a thriving city with a vibrant, contemporary feel. One of the finest hotels in Bucharest is the InterContinental Athénée Palace, located near high-end shops and classic European cafés.

In the center of Old Town Bucharest is a historic restaurant perfect for resting and refueling after a day of exploration. With stained glass and a Gothic interior, Caru’ cu bere offers hearty and delicious local cuisine; I enjoyed the highly recommended bean soup in a bread bowl.

If you prefer an upscale, modern dining experience, CAJU by Joseph Hadad is a wonderful option. The casually elegant atmosphere sets the stage for an exciting, cuisine-focused repast.

In Brașov we stayed at the Kronwell Hotel (kronwell.com), a modern respite for the explorers of Romania. When I’m traveling, I love to find traditional restaurants that serve classic local dishes. La Ceaun in Brașov is a casual spot for just such dining; their dishes are hearty Romanian fare at its best.