The 1929 Catalina Casino overlooks Avalon harbor. Photo by Don Mankin

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Santa Catalina’s buffalo herd remains on the Southern California island after a 1924 movie shoot.

Twenty-six miles across the sea, Santa Catalina is a-waiting for me.

In 1957, the Four Preps crooned about an “island of romance” off the coast of southern California. Back then, the song caught the imagination of this anxious, tortured, barely pubescent 14-year-old with visions of swaying palm trees, balmy breezes and California blondes.

Now, 70 years later, an older, wizened version of that teenager was heading to that island of romance with his wife, Katherine (previously blonde, now white-haired), for a two-night excursion unlike anything else on the U.S. mainland.

Santa Catalina, as it is formally known, was originally inhabited by various Native American tribes, then claimed by Spain and later by Mexico. It became part of the United States, along with the rest of California, in 1848.

In 1919, William Wrigley Jr., of chewing gum and Chicago Cubs fame, bought most of the island and invested millions to develop the resort town of Avalon, its only incorporated city. His descendants created the Catalina Island Conservancy in 1975 to preserve the rest of the island.

This magical island, with its Mediterranean vibe, is the perfect side trip on a visit to Southern California, a refreshing counterpoint to Disneyland, Venice Beach or Hollywood. Although it’s part of Los Angeles County, it feels like a trip to another country.

Only 4,000 people live on Catalina, but with one million visitors a year, it can be crowded during the summer. The recent best-selling book, Nightshade, by famed mystery writer Michael Connelly is set in Avalon and may bring even more crowds during high season. Fortunately for Katherine and me, it was almost deserted during our visit in January.

Getting there is (almost) half the fun

The fun begins with the Catalina Express, a scheduled passenger service offering frequent trips from Long Beach, just south of Los Angeles, the starting point for our trip. The Express also runs ferries from San Pedro, just to the north of Long Beach, and Dana Point, further south in Orange County.

Our trip, on a comfortable high-speed catamaran, took about an hour — a scenic jaunt that began with views of downtown Long Beach, then the Queen Mary and the massive cranes of the port of Long Beach before the boat headed out into open water.

As we approached Avalon, we saw the iconic Catalina Casino at the far end of the harbor. At 12 stories high, it’s the largest building on the island, and architecturally distinct in Art Deco and Mediterranean styles. Despite its name, it was never used for gambling but primarily as a venue for movies and dances. It is still used as a theater as well as for community events and festivals.

At the other end of the harbor is the pier for the Catalina Express. Curving between the pier and the casino, the harbor is dotted with all kinds of boats at anchor, a narrow beach and a promenade lined with shops, restaurants and boutique hotels. Off the walkway, houses and apartment buildings extend for a few blocks, then thin out on the brush- and tree-covered hills above the town.

Exploring Avalon

For our two-night visit, we stayed at the historic Atwater Hotel, located near the promenade. The hotel was built by the Wrigley family in 1920 and named after William Wrigley’s daughter-in-law, Helen Atwater.

The charming lobby is decorated with artifacts from Helen’s life, including various board games, the original Wrigley safe from Chicago, and several musical instruments, including a full-size harp. It was the first time I have ever been directed to my room by looking for the “elevators behind the accordion.”

We dropped the luggage off in our room and took a leisurely stroll on the promenade. We checked out the Casino, some historic buildings associated with the Catalina Island Yacht Club, founded in 1925, and the Tuna Club (not a sandwich), one of the oldest fishing clubs in the world, founded in 1898.

The next morning, we hiked the steep Country Club Loop that heads uphill from downtown Avalon, then descends along winding streets past quaint wooden houses precariously perched on the hills above the town.

The 1.5-mile walk was challenging at first, but the elevated views of downtown Avalon and the harbor were well worth it.

The island’s interior

In the afternoon, we went on a three-hour “eco tour” through the interior of the island in an open four-wheel-drive vehicle offered by the Catalina Island Conservancy.

Access to the interior is limited, so the only way to see it in a vehicle is on a private tour. Hiking and backpacking, with permits, are also allowed.

Our guide, Christian, was excellent, pointing out native and invasive plants, describing wildlife conservation efforts over the years and recounting the history of the island. He was particularly passionate about emphasizing the Wrigley family’s role in promoting conservation on the island, which is home to bald eagles, foxes, sea lions and a legendary herd of 150 buffalo.

The highlight of the trip, aside from the views of the rocky coastline, was spotting some of the massive, shaggy beasts, descendants of a small herd left on the island after a movie shoot in the 1920s.

Our short, sweet excursion brought me back to that time many years ago, when, as a young teenager anxiously facing an unknown future, I first heard those lyrics and dreamed of a life that seemed hopelessly out of reach. Who knew back then that I would be visiting the “island of romance” years later with my beloved wife?

The trip was well worth it, from Long Beach to Catalina, from then to now.

If you go

Round-trip ferry tickets to the island on the Catalina Express (catalinaexpress.com) are around $80. Other hotels on the island, aside from the Atwater (visitcatalinaisland.com/hotel-atwater), include the Zane Grey Pueblo Hotel (zanegreyhotel.com), the former home of the renowned novelist, and Mt. Ada (visitcatalinaisland.com/mt-ada), the former home of William Wrigley Jr. and his wife, Ada.

As you might expect, fresh seafood reigns supreme on the island. We ate at the Bluewater Grill on the water one evening and the more casual Lobster Trap on the other; both were excellent.

For more information on Catalina Island in general, go to visitcatalinaisland.com or catalinaconservancy.org.

Don and Katherine’s trip was hosted by Love Catalina (lovecatalina.com), the official Catalina Island Tourism Authority.