Off the beaten track in Northern Ireland
The story of Northern Ireland is a tale of natural beauty and convivial people bound up in a singularly dark and bloody history. For a week and a half last summer, my wife Katherine and I traveled through Ireland — from Dublin, through Game of Thrones country along the windy coast of Northern Ireland, to the Wild Atlantic Way on the west coast and back to Dublin. The trip — my... READ MORE
Puerto Rico once again enchants visitors
The sprawling 300-year-old Nispero tree — in the outdoor courtyard of the former Carmelite convent that dates back to 1651 — stretches up 50 feet, beyond the fifth floor of what is now the El Convento hotel in Old San Juan. In September 2017, Hurricane Maria’s 155-mile-per-hour winds savaged the tree, along with the rest of Puerto Rico. Hotel management called on expert arborists,... READ MORE
Visiting European capitals via the Danube
“Now we’re heading toward Durnstein, one of the loveliest towns in Austria,” the voice over the ship’s loudspeaker intoned. “So many artists have gathered at one spot to portray the magnificent surrounding landscape that it became known as the Painters’ Corner.” As our vessel continued its journey on the Danube River, my wife and I joined other passengers in oohing and... READ MORE
How to bypass ATM fees while traveling
If you find yourself short on cash while on vacation, it might seem easiest to hit up the nearest ATM. But if that handy machine is not in your bank’s network, you could get a double whammy of fees: The ATM owner will probably charge a few dollars for the convenience, and your own bank may tack on an extra $2.50 or so. You can avoid paying ATM surcharges, however, with some prep work.... READ MORE
Affordable options beckon for fall travel
It’s time to start working on your fall travel plans. And if your schedule permits, fall remains a top time for vacation travel for at least two reasons. First, throughout the United States, Canada and Europe, the summer heat is largely over, but winter chill hasn’t yet set in. Second, families with kids are back home with kids in school. The net result is that, historically, the... READ MORE
Whales and wonder in icy Antarctica
One after the other, humpback whales arched their backs and slid into the frigid waters of Antarctica. As they flicked their tails in the air, rivulets dripped from the edges before they disappeared below the surface. I stood up in the Zodiac, a small inflatable boat with an outboard motor, my camera poised for the next opportunity for a once-in-a-lifetime shot. I didn’t have to wait... READ MORE
Diverse Panama offers more than a canal
An American traveler, adventurer and author named Richard Halliburton swam the length of the Panama Canal a few years after it opened in 1914. He was charged 36 cents for the trip. Today, ships that follow in his footsteps — or, rather, his wake — pay $200,000 to $300,000 for the privilege. The average toll for the largest vessels, which use wider locks that began to operate in 2016, ... READ MORE
Feeding stomach and soul on Italian trail
Long ago, religious pilgrims trudged up and down the Camino de Santiago in Spain, the Kumana Kodo Trail in Japan, and other lengthy footpaths to achieve spiritual enlightenment. Many still do. Not only do these trails lead to sites of profound religious significance, but the physical challenge, even suffering, is believed to help pave the way to enlightenment. Similarly, the... READ MORE
Three enchanting weeks in sultry Sumatra
The young orangutan swung on a vine like an Olympic gymnast. From the look on his face, it was clear that he was having a great time performing for the sweaty hikers who had trekked through the Sumatran jungle to catch his show. My wife and I were in the orangutan reserve on the edge of Bukit Lawang in Northern Sumatra on a trip hosted by Eldertreks — an adventure travel company... READ MORE
Changes to Eurail Pass boost flexibility
Eurail Pass just announced the biggest overhaul in its 60 years of existence. Among the key features: — Eurail Select Passes Discontinued: Most passes valid for travel in contiguous sets of two, three or four countries are gone. Most one-country passes remain, but if you want to travel in more than one country, your best option now is a 31-country Global pass. Fortunately, the... READ MORE
