Cambodia’s famous 900-year-old temple, Angkor Wat, has 400 acres to explore. © Luciano Mortula | Dreamstime.com

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A woman weaves silk in Oknhatey Village on an island on the Mekong River near Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Photo by Michael Nolan, TBC / Courtesy AmaWaterways

In rural Vietnam and Cambodia, lush vegetation opens up to abundant farmland tended by generations of farmers who still work the land with oxen and plow along the Mekong River.

On a river cruise ship called the AmaDara, a friend and I, along with 120 other passengers, took in the views of the beautiful countryside from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap.

Our riverboat journey was bookended by booming metropolises — vibrant cities where hipsters on scooters, professionals in cars, and athletic hustlers in rickshaws navigate traffic together.

Many men who came of age during the Vietnam War and the draft have little desire to walk in the footsteps of U.S. soldiers. My husband had no interest in this adventure, so this ended up as a girls’ trip. Although we experienced moments heavy with sorrow, like a visit to the Killing Fields, several instances of reflection and healing touched my heart. The people we met were overwhelmingly generous and welcoming.

We sailed with AmaWaterways, choosing a cruise that leans into cultural education. Temples, UNESCO sites and historic tours are part of the daily adventures. If you want to learn about the people and culture of two nations that are deeply intertwined with our history, this cruise is a wonderful way to tour this beautiful region.

Underground tunnels

We started out in South Vietnam’s former capital, Ho Chi Minh City, previously called Saigon. One of the highlights on our pre-cruise day in that city was exploring the Cu Chi Tunnels. A veritable underground metropolis, the network of tunnels connects many rooms where civilians hid and the Viet Cong conducted maneuvers.

Camouflaged entrances to the tunnels dotted the countryside, allowing people to move about without being seen. As we dropped into the tunnel and navigated underground, we marveled at the ingenuity required to design this undetectable network of kitchens, weapons storage, hospitals and a military command center.

Cambodia’s capital

Our trip down the Mekong brought us to many interesting ports, including beautiful Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.

Riding in a tuk tuk (a three-wheeled motorized carriage) is a unique, albeit touristy, way to see Phnom Penh. The city’s architecture blends French and Khmer architectural styles in a fascinating fusion of modernity and history. Its Central Market is a perfect example: French Art Deco-style housing is the backdrop for classic Cambodian bazaar stalls selling food, clothing and souvenirs.

The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh is the official residence of the elected King of Cambodia, who is part of a unique blend of constitutional monarchy and elected parliamentary government.

The centerpiece of the Royal Palace compound is the Silver Pagoda, whose floor is covered with more than 5,000 reflective silver tiles (now mostly protected by carpeting). The pagoda is home to stunning Buddhist artifacts, including an emerald Buddha statue and a gold Buddha encrusted with thousands of diamonds.

Another highlight of our seven-day cruise was Oudong, Cambodia’s former royal capital and the destination for Cambodian pilgrimages. There, in an ornate monastery, we attended a Buddhist blessing ceremony. We sat on the floor while monks-in-training chanted their blessings.

Later, we climbed 409 steps up Oudong Mountain, where the panoramic views from the temple grounds were spectacular. The hike down was much easier, even without railings.

Our stop in Koh Oknha Tey was one filled with children’s laughter and classroom lessons. We visited an elementary school where the students were eager to practice their English, show off their academic prowess and entertain us with a few tunes like “You Are My Sunshine.” The children, who wanted to know everything from our favorite candy to how many grandchildren we had, were an absolute joy.

We next headed to Silk Island, where cloth is still made on looms. You can watch the artisans’ process, from growing the larvae to weaving beautiful scarves and clothing. This excursion is a must-do for any fashionista who wants to add Cambodian silk to their closet.

Cambodian countryside

Angkor Ban, in northwestern Cambodia, is one of the few villages spared by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s, likely because of its agricultural importance. Today its dusty dirt roads are lined with traditional wooden houses on stilts. Although it’s not a tourist trap, Angkor Ban’s main streets have small shops that sell food, clothing and other essentials, including “motorcycle beer” — old glass Coke bottles filled with gasoline.

Nearby, the famous Angkor Archeological Park is a complex of ancient temples and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The iconic Angkor Wat is the park’s centerpiece.

We made the trek to Angkor Wat beginning at 4:30 a.m., hoping for a great photo of the sunrise over the temple. Sadly, there was a slight drizzle that morning, so the sunrise was underwhelming. However, the complex is immense (around 150 square miles), and we had plenty of time to explore the ruins, painted murals, carved bas-reliefs and massive statues. Pro tip: Leave your jewelry at home. The ubiquitous wild monkeys like to snatch shiny things.

If you go

Round-trip fares to Vietnam start at $839. While the flights to Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi are long, the reward is well worth the time on the plane.

We went in April, when it was beyond hot. February and March have the best weather.

Pack sturdy, comfortable shoes because you’ll walk and walk. However, we did experience some very unique modes of transport including sampans, trishaws, tuk tuks, rickshaws and even an adventure on an ox cart.

We made our journey simple on this adventure by booking everything through AmaWaterways, even airfare and transfers. This was my third river cruise with AmaWaterways. The staff is superb, the guides are knowledgeable, and the itineraries include beautiful ports. See amawaterways.com.