Cruise the Seine from Paris to Normandy
Photo by Chris Karidis on Unsplash
“Paris is always a good idea,” Audrey Hepburn declared in the movie Sabrina. Her words come to mind every time I consider a trip to France.
My husband, Chris (a dedicated history buff), and I (an insatiable foodie), combined our two favorite pastimes this spring and set off on a Viking river cruise to “Paris & The Heart of Normandy.”
From Omaha Beach to artisanal chocolate-covered caramels on Paris’ Left Bank, we discovered historic landmarks and tasty treats on an eight-day cruise along the Seine River.
One of my favorite things about cruising is unpacking only once. The “floating hotel” concept is brilliant: You can experience history, shopping, local cuisine and tourist sites without the hassle of extensive planning. Everything is done for you so that you can relax.
We sailed on the Radgrid, which carries 168 guests and 46 crew members. These small ships imbue an immediate sense of family and friendship.
Viking’s adults-only policy is a welcome change from cruising with small humans. We love our children and grandchildren, but relish the quiet vacation time.
The ship has only one dining room, but its culinary staff does a remarkable job serving three delicious meals each day. The breakfast buffet has everything from fruit and pastries to omelets. Table service for lunch and dinner channeled the casual luxury of a fine-dining restaurant with locally inspired dishes.
Begin and end in Paris
Paris bookends this cruise itinerary. Once you settle in your cabin, you have one or two days at each end of the cruise to explore the City of Lights.
For a history lesson and to get our local bearings, we signed up for an onshore excursion.
We have sailed on dozens of cruises, and Viking’s tour guides rank in the top tier. Their local guides are knowledgeable, pleasant, helpful and adept at herding distracted tourists.
Ours helped us find the best croissants and shops, and even taught us how to deftly navigate café culture during our tour, “Flavors of Paris: Delectable Parisian Gastronomy” — a stroll through Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the 6th Arrondissement. Charcuterie nibbles and decadent éclairs were my favorite bites.
Many fellow passengers spent hours in the Louvre, an excellent, if not overwhelming, museum. We passed on viewing the masterpieces there but took a selfie in front of I.M. Pei’s iconic Louvre Pyramid as a memento.
One of my favorite only-in-Paris adventures is the nighttime light show projected on the Eiffel Tower, best viewed from a Seine River cruise.
French Impressionists
On our third day, the ship docked in La Roche-Guyon, 40 miles north of Paris. The impressive Château de La Roche-Guyon, with its crumbling medieval stone keep, is the showpiece of the commune (or town).
Once used as Rommel’s headquarters, the castle now welcomes tourists. Viking guests can experience a hands-on workshop exploring the fine art of setting the table through the ages.
The cruise includes an excursion to Claude Monet’s awe-inspiring home in Giverny. I have a fondness for Impressionists, and of course Monet is a favorite. The feeling of being transported into a Water Lilies painting is magical.
Because Giverny is closed between November 1 and April 1, the alternate excursion is Auvers-sur-Oise. That commune was home to Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masters Vincent van Gogh, Camille Pissarro and Paul Cézanne. Visit van Gogh’s inspiration for Wheatfield with Crows and his grave in the adjacent cemetery.
On our fourth day, we explored Rouen, whose Gothic architecture belies the city’s infamous and dark history. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake on Place du Vieux Marché in 1431.
At first, the modern Church of Saint Joan of Arc appears to randomly undulate across the plaza. As you circumnavigate the structure, the sweeping curve design seems to mimic the movement of flames.
Victor Hugo called Rouen “the city of a hundred spires,” but the 151-meter-high cast-iron spire of Notre-Dame Cathedral dominates the skyscape. The cathedral, made famous in Monet’s paintings, is the final resting place of Richard the Lionheart.
The power of Normandy
In anticipation of the 80th anniversary of the D-Day landings in Normandy on June 6, 2024, we visited the Caen Memorial Museum, Normandy American Cemetery and Omaha Beach. This destination was the main reason many of our fellow passengers chose the cruise.
In a private ceremony Viking arranged for us, we assembled around a statue titled “The Spirit of the American Youth Rising from the Waves,” where retired military passengers laid a wreath. When “Taps” played, we were grateful for our sunglasses shielding our tears.
At Omaha Beach, we walked along the peaceful shoreline and struggled to comprehend the magnitude of the battle. Chris and several others reverently filled small jars with sand, a traditional Normandy souvenir.
Castles and Napoleonic history
The following day, we meandered through the streets of historic Les Andelys, past charming shops and cafes. Travelers in search of unique gifts will find options like the tiny La Boutique du Château, filled with stunning artisan leather jewelry.
Overlooking Les Andelys, the Château Gaillard fortress ruins are a hike to reach, but the reward is a panoramic view of the Seine River valley. Built in the 12th century by Richard the Lionheart, the castle is a unique example of invincible medieval siege warfare.
As our cruise winded down, we were invited to sign up for an optional tour of the Palace of Versailles. The interior decor tells a tale of an extravagant lifestyle beyond our wildest dreams, and the beautiful gardens are a perfect spot to relax like a pampered French royal.
Some of our fellow passengers visited Napoleon’s Château de Malmaison, an elegant museum. Josephine Bonaparte kept the château after her divorce, living there until her death in 1814. The museum is sumptuously decorated in period furnishings, inspiring you to dream of magnificent diners and opulent soirees.
The Paris to Normandy itinerary is a pleasing balance of history, art and gastronomy wrapped into a well-curated getaway.
I love the fairytale villages and historic cities along the Seine River because they offer a charming escape from our day-to-day life. But Paris, with its culture, food, fashion and people, will always have my heart.
For more information, visit vikingrivercruises.com.
