For real Palm Beach, go beyond mansions
With its signature shades of pink and green, Palm Beach, Florida, seemed made for mother-daughter getaways. As a mom of two daughters, ages 16 and 13, I booked a trip there to see if we could make a few memories.
To be honest, Palm Beach’s marketing worked on me. I could picture us laughing over brunch at The Colony Hotel and lingering over dinner at Buccan in the kind of picture-perfect moments that filled my social media feeds.
“Pack your polos and preppy clothes, girls,” I told them. “Palm Beach calls for pastels.”
We arrived expecting the kind of place that looks ready for glossy travel magazines. Palm Beach delivered that and more — welcoming locals, crystal-clear waters and sunsets we’ll remember forever.
Flagler’s legacy
Our first afternoon began with a walking tour by Island Living Tours, which helped us understand the story behind Palm Beach Island, a 16-mile-long barrier island in the Atlantic.
At the Flagler Museum, we stepped into the world of Gilded Age excess. Home to Henry Flagler, co-founder (with John D. Rockefeller) of the Standard Oil Company, the 1902 mansion’s marble halls, ornate ceilings and lavish furnishings reflected unimaginable wealth.
Yet the stories behind the splendor were just as compelling. We learned about Flagler’s three marriages and complicated personal history that unfolded inside his 75-room home. My daughters left the mansion with an understanding that wealth and happiness do not always coincide.
Our home base was The Ben, a hotel in West Palm Beach on the mainland’s downtown waterfront. Inspired by writer and adventurer Byrd Spilman Dewey’s Ben Trovato Estate, the boutique hotel, part of Marriott’s luxury Autograph Collection, plays up its literary theme. Bookshelves line the lobby and guests can request a “book butler” experience to have books delivered to their room on a silver platter.
My daughters noticed the bookshelves in the lobby right away, giving us a place to linger together. They were even more excited about the rooftop pool, where the morning sun illuminated the palm trees and boats drifted through the marina below.
Palm Beach through their eyes
The Ben’s complimentary shuttle to the shore made beach days effortless. After years of crowds and waves in Ocean City, Maryland, my daughters found a new confidence swimming farther out together in calm, clear waters. The ocean quickly became one of the reasons we wanted to return.
I expected my daughters to be drawn to the sophisticated shops on Worth Avenue, but they were far more interested in the tiny fish at the beach. The kids created their own version of our getaway, one that involved sandy feet, a seashell-hunting competition and meals at the same casual café three days in a row.
That delightful spot was Brighten Your Day Café, the surprise favorite of our trip. In a city often associated with exclusivity, this small restaurant showed us that the greatest luxury was the feeling of being remembered and welcomed.
The owner, Ethan Haim, greeted us personally, offered samples of every soup and salad dressing on the menu, and made us feel like regulars. He even added our Polaroid photo to the wall.
My younger daughter couldn’t wait to order the clam chowder after sampling it, insisting on return trips just to have it again. My older daughter, who had considered a future in finance, surprised me by picturing herself owning a café someday.
The owner’s kindness reminded us that success takes many forms, and that a meaningful life is often built around connection.
Unexpected memories
One evening, we joined Visit Palm Beach for a sunset catamaran cruise, spotting turtles and watching the sun dip below the horizon.
Palm Beach delivered the beauty I expected: historic estates, elegant shopping, beautiful hotels and scenery that looked ready for a camera roll. Yet when my daughters and I talk about the trip, those are not the moments we return to first.
We remember the café owner who welcomed us. We remember the tour guide’s stories about Palm Beach’s hidden past. We remember the first time we stepped into the calm Atlantic Ocean and the colors of the sunset.
If you go
Round-trip flights to Palm Beach cost around $250. If you book a flight with Southwest points, combined with Marriott points for a stay at The Ben, it can be an affordable getaway.
Average high temperatures are 84 degrees in October, 79 degrees in November and a balmy 76 degrees in December.
Most of the attractions within Palm Beach and West Palm Beach require a car, but The Ben has a free shuttle service, dubbed “Bruno,” to bring guests anywhere within two miles.
Be sure to stop in Brighten Your Day Café as well as Elisabetta’s Ristorante and Sloan’s Ice Cream. Or visit Green’s, open since 1938, a favorite of John F. Kennedy.