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Certain foods just need to be made and eaten at least once a summer. Corn chowder (or chowdah, as my in-laws would say) is one.

And if you are in a place where the ears of fresh sweet corn are piled high at the market (often for pennies an ear), then you must make it more than once.

There are lots of ways to go — simple, seafood, creamy, chunky. This recipe is loaded with nuggets of baked salmon, and qualifies as a main course chowder, if you wish.

If you have other kinds of fish or seafood, you can sub them in. Clams, scallops, cod — all delicious. Just make sure they are in soup-appropriate bite-size pieces.

You can sauté them as directed in the recipe, but if they are left over from another summer meal, then you can skip that step.

Salmon Corn Chowder

Servings: 8

Start to finish: 40 minutes

2 pounds skinless salmon fillets
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 cup minced shallots
6 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
6 Yukon gold potatoes (about 2 pounds), scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch dice
4 cups corn kernels (from about 8 ears)
1 cup half-and-half
3 tablespoons minced fresh dill
Kosher or coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
For garnish (choose one or both):
Sliced scallions
Crumbled cooked bacon (optional)
Minced fresh dill

Cut the salmon into 1-inch pieces. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add half the salmon and sauté just until the outside turns opaque, about 2 minutes. Remove from the skillet with a slotted spoon, melt the remaining tablespoon of butter, and repeat with the other half of the salmon.

Over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil in a stockpot or very large saucepan. Add the shallots and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the broth, increase the heat to high and bring to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to medium-high and add the potatoes. Partially cover the pot, keep the broth at a simmer, and cook until the potatoes are tender, 12 to 15 minutes.

In a blender or food processor, combine 1 cup of the corn kernels with the half-and-half. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out about 1/2 cup of cooked potatoes and add those to the bender, and puree until smooth.

Add the mixture along with the remaining corn kernels and the dill back into the pot, and return to just barely a simmer. Simmer gently for 2 minutes, add the partially cooked salmon, season with salt and pepper, and simmer for another 2 minutes until the salmon is just cooked through.

Taste and adjust seasonings as needed, and serve hot with whatever garnishes you like.

Nutrition information per serving: 315 calories; 107 calories from fat; 12 g. fat (3 g. saturated; 0 g. trans fats); 53 mg. cholesterol; 331 mg. sodium; 32 g. carbohydrate; 3 g. fiber; 5 g. sugar; 23 g. protein.

—AP