Newport’s Gilded Age mansions still dazzle


Newport, Rhode Island, has long been a summer playground for the rich and famous. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the city evolved as Gilded Age tycoons built their “summer cottages” there in the 1870s. Yachters began hosting the America’s Cup races offshore beginning in 1930. That high-society vibe continues today with sailing regattas, luxury hotels and high-end shops.
I visit Newport often because my extended family owns a historic sailing captain’s home there, affording me a place to land when exploring this community on Narragansett Bay. Each time I visit, I discover a new historic site, hiking trail or café.
Tour the cliffside mansions
The main attractions are The Breakers, The Elms and other historic mansions, many of which are now open to the public as museums.
One such mansion, considered to be one of the first palatial Newport homes, Château-sur-Mer (Castle by the Sea), debuted in 1852. The Italianate-style mansion set the tone for the summer season for Newport’s elite residents. In 1969, the Preservation Society of Newport County bought the estate at auction and reopened it as a museum.
Newport’s most iconic mansion, The Breakers, was built by Cornelius Vanderbilt II between 1893 and 1895. The Italian Renaissance-style “summer cottage” is a must-visit. Its opulent, over-the-top décor and glorious Great Hall, with its 50-foot ceiling, showcase Vanderbilt’s status as one of the wealthiest men in America.
My favorite Gilded Age mansion is The Elms. Inspired by the French Château d’Asnières, the house is filled with beautiful pieces of fine art. Its expansive terraces are home to ornate fountains, lavish gardens and beautiful sculptures. I suggest booking the “Servant Life Tour,” which offers a peek into the lives of the property’s invisible staff. This back-of-the-house tour reveals how workers discreetly fulfilled the mundane tasks and quirky requests of their wealthy employers.
You can also visit the stunning Rosecliff, known for its gorgeous heart-shaped staircase. At Marble House (which is, as its name suggests, brimming with the polished stone), stop in the Chinese Tea House that anchors the sweeping lawn. Round out a mansion tour with visits to Chepstow, Hunter House, Kingscote or the Isaac Bell House.
A good way to glimpse the exteriors of the mansions is via the waterfront 3.5-mile Cliff Walk, which is free and open to the public daily. Many of the mansions are open for the summer season only. During the Christmas season, several mansions are decked out in their finest glitz. All the details can be found at newportmansions.org.
Newport’s sailing history
At the Sailing Museum & National Sailing Hall of Fame, you can delve into the history of this sport and learn about the master sailors who shaped the history of sailing.
Newport hosted its first America’s Cup race in 1930. Since then it has been home to many sailing races, including several more America’s Cup competitions.
The America’s Cup, a trophy for the world-famous sailboat race, has its roots in England. In 1851 the New York Yacht Club sailed the schooner America across the Atlantic to compete in the Solent Races, answering a challenge from Great Britain’s Royal Yacht Squadron. After America took home the 100 Guineas Cup, the award for winning a 74-mile race around the Isle of Wight, the club renamed the coveted trophy the America’s Cup.
If you’d like to try your hand at maneuvering an America’s Cup competition yacht, look to America’s Cup Charters (americascupcharters.com). Guests work as crew alongside seasoned sailors on one of their acclaimed yachts.
My personal preference is for a more laid-back water experience. A sunset sail on a beautiful schooner where I can enjoy the panoramic coastline views with an adult beverage is perfect. Newport Classic Cruises (sail-newport.com) offers a wide range of harbor sailing tours to enjoy a relaxing sail.
Stroll through historic downtown
As for shopping and dining, Newport’s Thames Street is a lively, upscale historic district. With cobblestone streets and trendy shops, the downtown is reminiscent of Boston’s classic brownstone neighborhoods.
Acknowledged as the “oldest operating restaurant in the United States,” the charming White Horse Tavern opened in 1673. The iconic building is the epitome of historic Newport architecture, with red clapboard siding, pediment doors and a gambrel roof. The interior decor of Windsor chairs, aged wood and white linens transports guests to a centuries-old tavern with delectable food.
With a flower show in June, a classical music festival in July and a jazz festival in August, there’s always a good time to visit Newport.
If you go
Newport, Rhode Island, is a seven-and-a-half-hour drive from the D.C. area. Often you can find a nonstop flight to Providence, 45 minutes north, for less than $200.
Plan an immersive visit with a stay at one of the city’s historic inns or B&Bs. Many are the former homes of ship captains and are beautifully restored. Their charming innkeepers are a valuable resource when exploring the city.
For more information about where to eat, stay or shop in Newport, visit Discover Newport at discovernewport.org.