A 10th-century church flanks the beach in Positano, Italy. “Positano bites deep,” John Steinbeck wrote after his 1953 visit to the Amalfi Coast. “It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” Photo by Ionana C | Pixabay

• Share

PRINT

Rocky shorelines, cliffside villages, sumptuous cuisine and lemons, lots and lots of lemons — Italy’s Amalfi Coast is a destination to be experienced, not simply visited.

My husband, Chris, and I embarked on a six-day walking tour of Italy’s southwestern coast with a group of 14, all active retirees. Our guided, six-day tour brought us closer to the history and culture of the region. Of course, shopping and sightseeing were definitely on the itinerary, but actually immersing ourselves in the local culture gave us a taste of la dolce vita, the sweet life.

Sorrento is an undisputed foodie paradise. Sorrento tomatoes, a coral-pink beefsteak variety, turn a simple Caprese salad into a culinary adventure. Getting to the Marina Grande at the base of Sorrento’s tufa cliffs requires navigating steep staircases and winding roadways, but intrepid diners will be treated to establishments frequented by locals.

Dine on freshly prepared catch-of-the-day dishes such as seafood spaghetti, grilled calamari and fried anchovies. Of course, arancini and limoncello spritz are tasty bites and sips for la merenda (an afternoon nosh).

The quiet hamlet of Termini is perfect for embarking on a downhill, 3.5-mile hike to Marina della Lobra. Winding through olive groves and small farms, we traversed old, steep donkey pathways, enjoying the stunning views of the Bay of Naples and Capri.

The Path of the Gods is a strenuous, four-hour hike traversing a winding route from Agerola to Nocelle, 1,400 feet above the famous village of Positano. Meander through terraced vineyards, forests and limestone ridges along the coast. From Nocelle, you can take a taxi into Positano to rest and then peruse the local shops.

In the pretty village of Ravello, we discovered romantic gardens, medieval walkways and more Mediterranean views. Villa Rufolo is a 13th-century estate with beautiful Moorish gardens, perfect for a low-key walking day. When visiting Ravello, do not miss Villa Cimbrone, home to the five-star Hotel Villa Cimbrone. Their gardens are open to the public, and the dramatic cliffside views from the Terrace of Infinity are worth the walk.

Another wonderful walk begins in Praiano and ends at the Convent of San Domenico, which requires climbing more than a thousand steps. The view at the top, however, is perfect. The 17th-century convent offers a peek into the austere religious life of the time.

While in Amalfi, a lemon farm tour is a different type of hike. Though it was a hilly climb, the sensory pleasure of meandering through the lemon grove was intoxicating. A sweet, citrusy scent fills the air as you brush past climbing trellises laden with bright yellow fruit so close you can almost feel their warmth. We booked the Amalfi Lemon Experience (amalfilemonexperience.it) for a guided grove tour and wonderful lunch.

No trip to the Amalfi Coast is complete without a speedboat ride. The view from water level as you pass by Praiano, with its terraced cliffs and the glittering majolica dome of the Church of San Gennaro, was delightful.

We zipped past the Li Galli Islands, home of the mythological sirens, then Positano, whose colorful buildings dot the cliffs above the beach. Finally, we glimpsed the island of Capri’s famous Faraglioni rock formations against the bright blue sky.

If you go

To easily navigate the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento is the best spot to anchor your visit. However, there are several wonderful small, rural areas, like Minori, or high-end enclaves, like Positano, which are as lovely.

We began our Italian sojourn in Rome and used Rome2Rio (rome2rio.com) to book door-to-door transportation to our Sorrento hotel, the Grand Hotel Cesare Augusto. If you are in search of a luxurious, five-star stay, try the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria.

Alternatively, you can fly into Naples International Airport and take a bus, taxi, train or ferry combination to the Amalfi Coast.

Avoid July and August, when the entire region is incredibly crowded and hot. The shoulder seasons (May, June, September and October) are less packed with tourists but still very busy. Our walking tour with EF Go Ahead Tours (goaheadtours.com) was in early May, when the weather was perfect for hiking: cool in the mornings and pleasantly warm in afternoons.